Ochheuteal Beach is very long, and has lots of restaurants with thatched roofs along it. It’s a lazy place to spend a couple days, except for the touts offering crawdads, bracelets or massages.

One day, we took a snorkeling trip on a small boat, to several nearby islands. We stopped for a grilled fish lunch on one island, and went snorkeling on a couple others. There are black urchins with 1-1.5 foot spines, and glowing blue eyes, yard-long anemone-looking things with faded pink tentacles, and a  phosphorescent green ectoplasm thing that sits on coral. The water isn’t incredibly clear, but it was fun to see the critters.

We saw some monks taking a beach stroll on the way back.


Cute kids came to greet our boat as we returned — returning boats being the day’s big event.


Sihanoukville, outside the Sokha Beach resort, has a big backpacker community, so there are a lot of young travelers traveling on the cheap. And a lot of bars open late, catering to a college-y partying crowd. We find ourselves in a sort of in-between age and demographic — we’re not student backpackers, and we’re not the resort crowd either.

While eating dinner at another guesthouse, we could hear the music from a wedding — a raucous band. We loved that they were singing House of the Rising Sun in Khmer.